Jersey Post will release a second set of stamps for their fabulous Jersey Industries series on November 2, 2023. The new set, History of Knitting, is an interesting companion piece to the 2021 150 Years of Brewing in Jersey set by artist Chris Wormell. Hands down, the Brewing souvenir sheet ranks as my favourite Jersey stamp and one of my all time world favourites.
Ann Street Brewery delivery vehicle from the 1920s
Everything about this set is spot on, but the souvenir sheet is the stand out. It successfully evokes a sense of the 1920s plus that is a kickass truck!
In an inspired choice, Jersey Post invited Wormell back to create the 2023 series and there is much more to it than meets the eye. It’s not just about knitting. Wormell successfully weaves a tale of the people who called Jersey home and how knitting became integral to their story.
Art and artistry of knitting and war
Collectors of Jersey stamps may be familiar with Chris Wormell’s work. He also designed Jersey’s 2016 Centenary of the Great War III.
Chris is a self-taught artist who’s passion for early woodcuts shines through in his style. He uses a variety of techniques and tools ranging from linocut to digital art. His work has graced everything from children’s books to magazines covers and coffee packaging. His work is distinctive, and quickly identifiable.
[I read] the brief carefully, make a sketch or sketches (more often than not, digitally as this allows more scope for adjustment and refinement – using erasure, transparency and multiple layers). Once the sketch is approved, make a start on the finished image – wood engraving or linocut or a digital version of either, or, if it’s one of my children’s books, a watercolour or ink drawing. Whatever the process of creation everything these days ends up as a digital file where final adjustments can be made.
Chris talking about his design process
Meet the Artists – Chris Wormell – The Artworks Illustration Agency (theartworksinc.com)
His artwork creates a sense of nostalgia without becoming maudlin about the past. In a 2020 interview with the Wall Street Journal, Wornell described himself as “a bit backward-looking” and explained his favourite art, as a child, were the wood-engravings by 18th c illustrator Thomas Bewick. This historical approach to design is a perfect fit for Jersey Post’s Industries series.
Knit away, but not in church
Natura exenterata: or nature unbowelled by the most exquisite anatomizers of her. Wherein are contained her choicest secrets digested into receipts, fitted for the cure of all sorts of infirmities by Philiatros,
The image on the right is a page from one of the earliest known publications to include knitting instructions. The book is a curious mix of medical advice, gout cures, which bait to use when fishing and knitting instructions. It was a catch all book.
Published in 1655, by H. Twiford in London, it offers the reader “Many Rare, hitherto un-imparted Inventions, for Gentlemen, Ladies and others, the the Recreations of their different Imployments” (front piece of the book).
The History of Knitting takes a look at the craft’s importance to both the Island as well as … well knitting itself. Think in terms of Jersey knit, Jersey socks and of course the famous Jersey sweater. As expected, Jersey Post’s press release department sent along an excellent write up on the stamps, which I am going to shamelessly pilfer from.
Over half the population engaged in knitting in the 1600 and 1700s, men, women and children. The first question that comes to mind is why did knitting become all consuming? “Due to the Island’s neutral position between warring England and Europe in the 16th – 17th centuries, Jersey was strategically placed to receive wool exports from England and develop a flourishing industry in the production and export of fine knitted goods to Europe”.
Because of this, knitting became a profitable sideline and a primary cottage industry Island wide. Knitting was everywhere – men driving horse carts would pull over and knit for awhile, knitting took place in pubs, at home, during meetings, even in churches. Almost every part of Jersey society became involved.
“… the work became so profitable that historians estimate at one point 60% of the population was involved in knitting, and over 6000 pairs of stockings were being exported to Europe each week”.
“The island’s quality goods were appreciated across Europe and England. Queen Elizabeth I was said to delight in a gifted pair of Jersey stockings from Sir Walter Raleigh (Lieutenant Governor of the Island at the time) and Mary Queen of Scots is said to have been wearing a pair of Jersey stockings at her execution”
The stamp pack cover is pure delight, showing Governor Raleigh gifting a pair of yellow Jersey stockings to the Queen. Perhaps if he’d offered more Jersey knits, he might have kept his head?
Knitting became so consuming, there were reports of church officials complaining about the incessant clicking of needles during sermons. Ministers feared they were not being heard over the racket. It became so problematic, edicts were passed forbidding knitting in church.
A growing evil – hear that knitters!
It wasn’t just the Church raising concerns about excessive knitting. In 1606 the Jersey government issued an an Order in State forbidding anyone over the age of 15 from knitting during seaweed harvesting season. Knitting was profitable for anyone who could master the needles and far less backbreaking. Officials worried the profits from knitting would interfere with regular work, especially seaweed (vraic) gathering, so a prohibition was issued during the vraic season.
Problems persisted even after the 1606 Order, so much so that it caught King Charles I’s attention 40 years later in 1649. In a letter to the Lieutenant Governor of Jersey, Charles expressed concern over the “growing evill” and mischief created by the Island’s competitive business.
Charles R.
Whereas wee are given to understand, that a very great obstruction is lately growne in the trade of wosted stockings (the chiefe comodity whch that our Isle doth yeald) by reason that such persons as dryve that trade, doe, for the most part, circumvent each other therein (to the notable prejudice of the whole Isle, & apparent ruyne, yf not tymely prevented, of many thousands of our subjects there, who subsist by that onely manufacture) Wee being very apprehensive of the sundry great inconveniences & mischiefes lykely to ensue, unles a speedy remedy be applyed to this growing evill, doe therfore, seriously recomend the care thereof unto you, & accordingly will & require you, that, upon conference had with the merchants who deale in that trade, you settle such a course therin for the future, (cyther by erection of a Company amongst them, or otherwise) as you shall judge most to conduce to the furtherance of the sayd trade: & of what you shall doe, to this end, wee expect to receave particular account win the space of three monthes next ensuing. Given under our Signett at St Germain, the 17 day of August 1649.
By his Majesties Comand.
ROB LONG:”
Complaints were raised about merchants interfering with each other as competition grew more fierce. It appears Charles felt obligated to step in to suggest a solution to the increasingly zealous trade. This wasn’t hobby knitting, it was a serious and lucrative business.
Each panel tells a little more of Jersey’s fascinating history
Chris Wormell lays out the story of knitting in a 6 panel setup, with each frame telling part of the tale. From wool gathering to the final product, each frame is accompanied by a beautiful little bit of selvedge showing a classic knitting pattern.
To the good folks at Jersey Post, the Ann Street Brewery truck is still my favourite. What do you have planned for series 3?
0 Comments